Centella Asiatica Benefits for Skin (Cica): What It Does & How to Use It

If you've shopped for skincare lately, you've seen "cica" on everything from toners to sheet masks. It's the nickname for centella asiatica, a leafy plant that has become one of the most popular ingredients for calm, comfortable, hydrated skin, especially skin that's sensitive, stressed, or recovering from a harsh routine.

Unlike some trending ingredients, centella has real research behind it. That research is also more specific than the marketing suggests. Here's what centella asiatica does for your skin, what's well supported and what's still early, and how to fit it into your routine.

Key Takeaways

• Centella asiatica ("cica") is a plant extract best known for soothing, hydrating and supporting the skin barrier.
• Its main active compounds are madecassoside, asiaticoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid.
• The strongest human evidence is for hydration and barrier support. In one four-week study, a 5% centella cream raised skin hydration by 25% and cut water loss through the skin by 18%.
• It's gentle and easy to pair. Centella works well alongside niacinamide, retinol, vitamin C and exfoliating acids, and it can help offset their dryness.
• It's well tolerated but not allergy-proof. Reactions are rare, so patch testing is still worth the minute it takes.

What Is Centella Asiatica?

Centella asiatica is a small, creeping plant in the parsley family that grows in wet, tropical regions of Asia and beyond. It goes by several names: gotu kola, Indian pennywort, and "tiger grass," after a legend that injured tigers rolled in it to help their wounds heal. It has been used in traditional Asian medicine for centuries, and it moved into mainstream skincare largely through Korean beauty, where "cica" (from its Latin name) became a category of its own.

On an ingredient list, you might see it as:

• Centella Asiatica Extract or Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
• Madecassoside or Asiaticoside (individual compounds from the plant)
• "Cica," usually in a product's name rather than the ingredient list

The Compounds That Do the Work

Centella's skin benefits come mainly from four natural compounds called triterpenoids:

• Madecassoside: the star of most cica products, best known for calming the look of redness and supporting skin recovery
• Asiaticoside: studied for its role in collagen production and skin repair
• Asiatic acid and madecassic acid: related compounds with overlapping calming and repair-supporting activity

The plant also contains polyphenols, antioxidant compounds that help defend skin against environmental stress. Together, these explain why centella shows up in formulas aimed at comfort, hydration and resilience rather than dramatic resurfacing.

6 Centella Asiatica Benefits for Skin

1. It boosts hydration

This is centella's best-documented benefit. In a 2016 study, 25 volunteers applied creams and gels containing centella extract twice a day for four weeks. The cream with 5% extract increased skin hydration by 25%, and the gel version by 22%, both clearly outperforming the placebo.

2. It strengthens the skin barrier

Your skin barrier's job is to keep water in and irritants out. When it's compromised, water escapes faster, a measurement called transepidermal water loss (TEWL). In the same study, the 5% centella cream reduced TEWL by 18% after four weeks, with an improvement already measurable after the first week. Less water loss means skin that feels less tight, flaky and reactive.

3. It calms visible redness

Centella is a go-to for irritated skin for a reason. The 2016 study also measured skin redness with a chromameter, an instrument that reads skin color objectively, and found a significant reduction with the 5% formulas. Lab research points to the mechanism: centella's compounds dial down several of the skin's inflammation signals.

4. It supports recovery when skin is stressed

Centella's traditional reputation is for wound healing, and lab studies back up the idea that madecassoside and asiaticoside support the skin's repair processes. Most of that evidence comes from lab and animal research rather than large human trials, so think of centella as a supportive ingredient for skin that's been over-exfoliated, windburned or irritated, not a treatment for wounds.

5. It helps defend against environmental stress

Centella's polyphenols act as antioxidants, helping neutralize the free radicals generated by UV exposure and pollution. Antioxidants aren't a substitute for sunscreen, but they're a useful second line of defense.

6. It may support firmness over time

A 2025 review of the research found that, beyond hydration, some of the more consistent human findings involve skin elasticity and the look of wrinkles, likely linked to asiaticoside's role in collagen production. The review also noted that these studies tend to be small and varied in design. It's a promising benefit, but a slower and more modest one than hydration.

What the Research Does and Doesn't Show

Centella is one of the better-studied botanicals in skincare, but it's worth being clear about where the evidence is strongest:

• Well supported in human studies: better hydration, reduced water loss through the skin, and calmer-looking redness
• Encouraging, but from smaller human studies: elasticity, the look of fine lines, and scar appearance
• Mostly lab-based so far: wound healing, collagen stimulation, and antioxidant protection

Results also depend on concentration and formula. The hydration and barrier results above came from products with 2.5–5% extract used twice daily. A product with a trace of centella near the bottom of its ingredient list shouldn't be expected to perform the same way.

Is Centella Good for Acne?

Centella can help, but as a supporting player. Its calming properties can reduce the look of redness around breakouts, and its barrier support can offset the dryness and irritation that come with proven acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid and retinoids.

What it isn't is an acne treatment on its own. It doesn't clear clogged pores or target acne-causing bacteria the way those ingredients do. The best approach is to use centella alongside your acne treatment, not instead of it. For persistent or painful acne, see a dermatologist.

Centella vs. Niacinamide: Which Do You Need?

These two often get compared because both are gentle, soothing and suitable for most skin types. They do different jobs, though, and they work well together.

If your main goal is a more even tone, start with niacinamide (see our complete niacinamide guide). If your skin feels tight, reactive or easily irritated, centella is the better starting point. Our Glass Skin Brightening Serum combines both, along with hyaluronic acid and PDRN (salmon DNA), so you don't have to choose.

How to Use Centella Asiatica in Your Routine

Centella is easy to use and suits both morning and evening routines.

Morning

1. Cleanse gently.
2. Apply a centella serum or toner.
3. Moisturize.
4. Finish with broad-spectrum sunscreen.

Evening

1. Cleanse.
2. Apply any active treatment (like a retinoid) if you use one.
3. Apply your centella serum, or use it first as a buffer if actives tend to irritate you.
4. Moisturize.

Weekly boost: A centella sheet mask gives stressed skin a concentrated dose of hydration and comfort. Our Glass Skin Hydration Mask is a bio-cellulose mask with centella asiatica and PDRN; use it every 1–2 weeks, or whenever your skin needs a reset.

What to pair it with

• Niacinamide: a natural partner for calm, even-looking skin.
• Retinol and retinoids: centella can help offset the dryness and irritation retinoids are known for.
• Vitamin C: works well together; apply vitamin C first in the morning, then centella.
• Exfoliating acids (AHAs, BHAs): centella helps skin recover between exfoliation days. Just don't over-exfoliate and expect centella to cancel it out.
• Hyaluronic acid: both boost hydration, so they stack well for dry or dehydrated skin.

Centella doesn't have any well-known ingredient clashes, which is a big part of why it's so easy to add to an existing routine.

How Long Does Centella Take to Work?

• Right away: a soothing, comfortable feel, especially on irritated skin
• Within the first week: measurably less water loss through the skin in the 2016 study
• Around four weeks: the clearest improvements in hydration and redness, based on the same study
• Several weeks to months: any change in firmness or the look of fine lines, which is slower and more modest

Consistency matters more than quantity. Twice-daily use of a well-formulated product will do more than piling on several cica products at once.

Is Centella Safe? Who Should Be Careful

Centella is considered one of the gentler ingredients in skincare. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review, the U.S.-based expert panel that assesses cosmetic ingredient safety, concluded in 2015 that centella-derived ingredients are safe as used in cosmetics when formulated not to cause sensitization.

That said, no plant ingredient is allergy-proof. Allergic reactions to centella are uncommon, but case reports do exist. To be safe:

• Patch test first: apply a small amount behind your ear or on your inner arm for a few days before using it on your face.
• Watch for itching, rash or swelling: if you notice any, stop using the product.
• If you have very reactive skin or known plant allergies, check with a dermatologist before adding new botanical ingredients.

Centella and Glass Skin

If you're chasing the "glass skin" look, that smooth, dewy, lit-from-within finish, centella is a natural fit. Glass skin depends on a well-hydrated, calm, intact barrier, and that's exactly where centella does its best work. It pairs perfectly with the layering approach in our guide on how to get glass skin.

Final Thoughts: Is Centella Worth Adding to Your Routine?

For most people, yes. Centella asiatica is one of the rare trending ingredients that's gentle, versatile and genuinely backed by research for hydration, barrier support and calming redness. It won't replace your sunscreen, your retinoid or your acne treatment, but it makes all of them easier to live with.

The simplest way to start is a daily serum that already combines it with other proven ingredients. Explore the Glass Skin Brightening Serum, or build a full at-home ritual with The Glow Between Ritual Kit.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does centella asiatica do for skin?

Centella asiatica soothes, hydrates and supports the skin barrier. In a four-week human study, a cream with 5% centella extract increased skin hydration by 25%, reduced water loss through the skin by 18%, and reduced visible redness. It's also studied for antioxidant protection and supporting firmness over time.

Is cica the same as centella asiatica?

Yes. "Cica" is a shortened form of centella asiatica, popularized by Korean skincare. Products labeled "cica" contain centella extract or its active compounds, such as madecassoside and asiaticoside.

Can I use centella asiatica every day?

Yes. Centella is gentle enough for daily use, morning and night, and the hydration and barrier results in studies came from twice-daily use over four weeks.

Can I use centella with niacinamide?

Yes. Centella and niacinamide complement each other: centella focuses on soothing and hydration, niacinamide on tone, oil and pores. They're often combined in the same formula.

Can I use centella with retinol?

Yes. Centella is a popular partner for retinol because its soothing, barrier-supporting properties can help offset the dryness and irritation retinoids often cause.

Is centella good for acne?

Centella can calm the look of redness around breakouts and support skin that's dried out by acne treatments. It isn't an acne treatment on its own, so use it alongside proven ingredients like salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide or retinoids, not instead of them.

Is centella safe for sensitive skin?

Centella is one of the most commonly recommended ingredients for sensitive skin and is generally well tolerated. Allergic reactions are uncommon but possible, so patch test any new product before applying it to your whole face.

How long does centella take to work?

You may feel a soothing effect right away. In research, reduced water loss was measurable after one week, with the clearest hydration and redness improvements at around four weeks of twice-daily use.

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This article is for informational purposes only and is not medical advice. Individual results vary. These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. This product is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease. Patch test new skincare products, and consult a dermatologist about persistent or severe skin concerns.

Sources

• Ratz-Łyko A, Arct J, Pytkowska K. Moisturizing and Antiinflammatory Properties of Cosmetic Formulations Containing Centella asiatica Extract. Indian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 2016. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
• Centella asiatica (L.) Urb. in skin health and cosmeceuticals: mechanisms, clinical evidence, and advanced delivery systems. Pharmacia, 2025. pharmacia.pensoft.net
• Cosmetic Ingredient Review. Safety Assessment of Centella asiatica-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics. 2015. cir-safety.org
• Özkaya E, et al. Allergic contact dermatitis from Centella asiatica extract and fragrance allergens: Report of two patients from Turkey. Contact Dermatitis, 2024. onlinelibrary.wiley.com